Remember the song, Tradition,
from the classic musical, Fiddler on
the Roof? The traditions of the
Jewish people began over 5,000 years ago and continue with each generation. Rosh
Hashanah, that translates literally as the “head” or “first” of the year, will
usher in the year 5,773 on September 16th at sundown when world
Jewry will set their tables with their finest cloths and china and dip apple slices into honey and say a prayer asking God for a sweet year with the same wish as their ancestors that their good deeds in the
ensuing year should be as plentiful as the seeds of the
pomegranate. Honey in
Biblical times represented good living and
wealth. The Bible refers to Israel as the land of "milk and honey”.
Chicken fat was once a part not only of every Jewish kitchen
but also most European ones. It was used in Northern Europe where oil was
scarce and butter expensive. It
is still used by Singaporeans and Malaysians to cook delicious Hainanese
Chicken Rice. Animal fat (‘schmaltz’=Yiddish, ‘smalz’=High
German). Until the middle of the 20th century, it was a basic
cooking staple and spread for bread. Cholesterol concern has caused it to all
but disappear even though it is no more of a culprit than butter or other
saturated solid fats. However, every gourmet cook knows that pâtés (Chopped
Liver) and Potato Pancakes (latkes) suffer when liquid oil replaces the true
fat of the ages. Chicken fat remains a pure product, not processed like Canola
or soy oils. Rendering chicken fat might even be classified as a gourmet
production (See below), or it can be acquired by saving the fat that forms on
top of the soup when refrigerated, or by slowly roasting a seasoned chicken
without addition of any liquid in the pan. Refrigerate the juices overnight.
The fat will rise to the top.
A typical Rosh Hashanah dinner might begin with chicken
liver pâté, followed by a light salad before an entrée of roast chicken. Carrots
sweetened with honey remain a favorite of the night. A delicious alternative to potatoes or
rice is Kasha (kasza), the Slavic name for buckwheat groats. When cooked with onions and chicken stock or
water, and mixed with bowtie pasta, they lend
a beautiful flavor balance to a vegetable enhanced with honey. This was traditional comfort food for
Russian Jews, who brought it to America. It is a good source of fiber and
naturally gluten-free. (In the absence of gluten-free bowties, substitute gluten-free
thin penne.)
TO RENDER
CHICKEN FAT
Remove the skin and fat from a
4-5 pound chicken. Cut the fat and skin
into rather small pieces and place in a saucepan with a sliced onion and a
clove of garlic, if you wish. Add a bit of Kosher salt and black or white
pepper. Cover and cook over very low heat approximately 45 minutes, turning the
fat occasionally. As the fat melts,
strain it into a bowl or jar, and continue cooking until all the fat has been
extracted. If the fat pieces become puffy, pierce them with a sharp knife to
fully extract the juices. Freeze in one cup amounts to use for pâtés, matzo
balls, and poultry dishes.
CHICKEN LIVER PÂTÉ
Yield: 6-8 Servings
Make a day in
advance for the flavors to settle.
1 pound fresh
chicken livers, fat and connective tissue removed
4 tablespoons
chicken fat or butter
1 large onion,
chopped
Optional: 1 clove
garlic, minced
½ pound white
mushrooms, sliced
2 tablespoons
brandy
1 teaspoon salt or
more to taste
½ teaspoon black
pepper or more to taste
⅛ teaspoon nutmeg
4 hard boiled
extra large eggs
Thinly sliced
sweet onion
Chopped parsley to
decorate
1.
Wash the livers, removing any fat, veins and
connective tissue.
2.
Warm the fat in a large skillet. Add the onion,
garlic, mushrooms and brandy. Cook over medium heat, turning the livers often
to cook evenly. Cook until livers are done throughout but still soft. Do not
overcook or they will become bitter.
3.
Add salt, pepper, nutmeg.
4.
Pour off excess liquid and cool to room
temperature.
5.
Combine with the hard boiled eggs and chop with a
hand chopper for country style chopped liver. Or put into a food processor and
purée for elegant pâté.
6.
Remove to a bowl or crock. Cover tightly and
refrigerate overnight.
7.
Set an open leaf of iceberg lettuce on individual
plates. Scoop out rounds of the liver to place in the center of each. Cover with a thin slice of onion and decorate
with parsley. Pass sliced Challah bread for all to enjoy.
ROAST CORNISH HEN
Yield: 6 servings one-half hen each
3 Cornish hens
Salt and pepper
1-2 cloves garlic, minced
½ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
1-2 sprigs rosemary, cut into 6 pieces
1 onion, chopped fine
2 ribs celery, chopped fine
½ cup white wine
2 tablespoons rendered chicken fat
½ cup chicken broth
1.
Preheat oven to 400°F.
2.
Slit the hens along the backbone. Slice through the
breast from neck to tail. Slice along one side of the backbone. Slice along the
other side and remove the bone to discard. Cut off the tails. Wash under cold
water and remove any extra fat. Dry on paper toweling.
3.
Slide a small, sharp knife under the tiny breast bones
and, without cutting into the meat, remove them.
4.
Sprinkle the hens well with salt and pepper. Squeeze lemon juice over both sides. Mince
the garlic and rub it well into the hens on both sides.
5.
Cover the bottom of a shallow baking pan with the onion
and celery. Add the wine to the pan. Place a half a hen over, skin side up.
Tuck a sprig of rosemary under each half. Brush with chicken fat.
6.
Roast, uncovered, ten minutes. Reduce oven temperature
to 350°F. Roast another 25-30 minutes, or until the juices run clear or a meat
thermometer inserted into the middle of the thigh registers 180°F.
7.
Strain the gravy from the baking pan into a saucepan. Stir
in the chicken broth. Bring to a boil and pour over the hens to serve.
KASHA WITH BOWTIE
FARFALLA
Yield: 6 servings
1 small purple onion, chopped fine by hand, not minced in
food processor
1 rib celery, chopped fine by hand
Optional: 1 clove garlic, minced
Optional: A handful of chopped mushrooms of your choice
1 tablespoon vegetable or olive oil (Dare I say chicken
fat again?)
1 cup Wolff’s® kasha
2 or more cups boiling chicken stock or water seasoned with salt and pepper
1 cup Wolff’s® kasha
2 or more cups boiling chicken stock or water seasoned with salt and pepper
½ teaspoon ground thyme or 1 teaspoon minced leaves
Optional: 6 ounces bowtie pasta or thin penne
Salt and pepper to taste
1.
In a deep skillet, sauté
the onion, celery, garlic and mushrooms in oil over medium heat until soft but
not colored.
2.
Add the kasha and
cook, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes until the grains are toasted and separate from
each other. Add the seasoned boiling stock or water. Stir, cover and reduce
heat to medium-low. Cook 30 minutes or longer, checking to add more liquid if
needed. The Kasha is done when it has become soft. It is important to keep it
moist.
3.
For the Pasta: Bring
a pot of water to a full boil. Add the pasta and cook according to package
directions. When the pasta is done, drain off the water. Combine the kasha and
pasta and toss well. Taste to add salt and pepper.
HONEY GLAZED
CARROTS
Yield: 6 servings
2 pounds carrots,
peeled and cut into 1 inch pieces
Salt to sprinkle
4 tablespoons unfiltered
honey (¼ cup)
1 teaspoon
RealLemon® juice
1 tablespoon
light brown sugar
8 ounces Mott’s®
Apple Juice (small bottle)
1.
Boil
the carrots in water to cover until half done and still very firm. Drain.
2.
Stir
the lemon juice into the honey in a glass measuring cup. Stir in the sugar and
apple juice until well combined.
3.
Pour
over the carrots and cook, uncovered, over medium heat until the mixture has reduced
to a glaze. Stir often, being careful not to break or mash the carrots. Keep
warm until ready to serve.
Tune in Comcast channel 22 & BrightHouse 199 to watch host, Valerie Hart, interview chefs in their kitchens "The Back of the House", or watch it live on your computer at www.lakefronttv.com. Follow her food page on Wednesdays in The Daily Commercial.
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